March 15, 2001

BROAD-BEAMED & STACKED...

I’m always delighted when I can write positively about a travel industry product that has emerged from our own Pacific Northwest ...and here is one I can thoroughly recommend.

D & D boarded America West Steamboat Company’s sternwheeler...’QUEEN OF THE WEST’ at the Double Tree Inn - Jantzen Beach OR. at 1pm Saturday March 3, bound for places unknown on the Willamette River and the mighty Columbia. Four nights away from the routine of everyday life.

The ‘Queen’...as she will be addressed from now on...measures 230 feet in length, 50 feet in the beam (sorry ma’am I have to give the facts!), carries a capacity of 163 pax and a crew of 41. Did I mention that this is a real life American ‘Queen’...built in Washington, she is a US owned and registered vessel?

A few more facts and we’ll move on to the ‘Rest of the Story’.

Her Highness offers the delightful Lewis & Clark Dining Room that can handle all of her guests in one seating, a small gift shop, elevator, a topside :Calliope Bar & Grill, Paddlewheel Lounge (my favourite) and the Columbia Showroom, site of entertainment, dancing & lectures, and deck space on which to relax & take in the scenery from a different perspective. Yep, she’s stacked...would you believe 4 decks...starting at the top, the Vista View Deck, Great Rivers Deck, Pioneer Deck & Explorer Deck.

We were Stateroom 224 on the Pioneer Deck...of course! You know what I really love about cruising? Unpack once and let the world come to you. Our stateroom was roomy enough, pleasant decor with twin beds, bathroom and ample window space.

All in all she’s an elegant American lady clad in white & red with a large red bustle (some refer to it as a sternwheel) that turns landlubbers heads and drives this lady both up and down stream.

There were one hundred & eleven passengers onboard this sailing, to me an impressive number for an early March departure hereabouts.

They came from far and wide, from the Middle East to Pennsylvania and from Oregon to Florida. Californians made up the majority of passengers, they came from the South, Central and North...all seeking the sunshine in the Pacific Northwest...AND...they found it!

D & D have been to Portland, to the Columbia River Gorge, to Astoria, to Mount St Helen’s, but we had never seen...and appreciated it...this way.

A major part of “the Queen’s” itinerary relies on the motorcoach tours (included in the cruise cost) that they offer from each port of call. In truth, on this four night cruise...the norm is seven nights...there was a little too much bus and not enough cruise...but A) you didn’t have to go on all trips & B) I have to say that they were excellent & comfortable vehicles, well conducted and interesting...even to we Northwest inhabitants.

Prior to setting sail on that first day we were taken on a tour of “The Rose City” and the World Forestry Center...and impressive they were decked in green and bathed in sunshine. On the Washington side of the river we visited ‘Fort Vancouver’, the long ago headquarters of the influential Hudson Bay Company. The fort was fascinating with a working blacksmith shop, cooking demonstration and fur stock room, the hour passed quickly.

Isn’t it funny how you live close to things and never really see them? We’d driven through ‘Officer’s Road’ many a time...but never taken time to stop at the reconstructed fort itself.

Indeed we found this to be true a number of times during this ‘River Escape’. Should any of your clients be Northwest historical enthusiasts and/or Lewis & Clark followers...they will love this cruise.

It was 6pm back aboard, cocktail hour! Our red tail (or wheel) was churning, spraying water onto the Paddlewheel Lounge’s large rear windows...we were heading east, up the Columbia River...next stop Parker’s Landing near Camas, WA.

The sun painted the sky with pastel pinks...the river reflected the colors but added the movement of the water as we began our Steamboat journey. We sipped our martinis...shaken not stirred...Ruby played a great piano...accompanied by that revolving giant (32 tons) red paddlewheel which moved ‘the Queen’ on her way.

First night, first dinner...tables for eight, for six, even for two...D & D slipped unnoticed into a table for two. We opted that evening for the intimate. The ‘Queen’ offers open seating and in fact encourages people to change tables and meet fellow travelers. We enjoyed a delicious salmon dinner, preceded by a flavour-filled salad and tasty clam chowder. The wine list offered a reasonable variety...and offered it at very good prices. We had paid $33 the night before in Portland for a Merlot I thoroughly enjoyed...imagine my surprise when the identical wine aboard was just $18.

Food aboard our floating home proved to be generally very good...with service that was delightful. The entire staff aboard our vessel were young, friendly and enthusiastic, to D& D in many ways, they proved to be the cherry on the River Cake.

Following dinner that evening Pat O’Neal and the Riverboat Jazz Band were playing in the Columbia Showroom. D&D headed for our ‘Churning Wheel’ Lounge Escape—a brandy—a little Ruby Bishop blues—and it was goodnight world, it had been one hectic week, but all was well now.

Sunday, March 4th: A light breakfast up on Vista View Deck...a view that had clouded over somewhat, accompanied by a Columbia River wind in the beautiful Columbia River Gorge. Majestic Mount Hood was out and about to watch us this day.

Our motorcoach excursion took us to the Bonneville Dam, The Columbia River Gorge Interpretive Center and a delightful 2 hour train trip from Parkdale to Hood River aboard the vintage Mt. Hood Scenic Railroad.

This beautifully restored train runs through Oregon’s largest fruit (mostly pears) growing region. While outside our windows the beautiful Oregon countryside unfurled, inside a strolling fiddler plied his craft, a slight-of-hand magician reminded us of the Riverboat gamblers, and brunch was elegantly served. “Eggs Benedict for me, please and yes, I’d love a glass of champagne.”

After leaving our vintage train our last stop before bowing to our ‘Queen’ again, was at the foot of the 620 foot high (second tallest in the USA) Multnomah Falls. Cameras clicked away, some climbed the path to the bridge half way up and others...that includes the other D...invaded the gift shop! We experienced our only rain of the entire cruise on our way back to the ‘Queen’.

Back on board...another pleasant dinner for two, please James (Keith, actually!), a great evening show from the Andrew Sisters-like...’String of Pearls’.

Oh yes...The river ran through...or under...and the night passed peacefully into my memory.

One can imagine...or can one?...how the explorers, trappers and immigrants of yesteryear spent a night in this beautiful...but demanding land.

David (Big Wheel) Bond

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